
This Wednesday, October 28, the China International Food Safety & Quality Conference (CIFSQ) opens in Shanghai for its twentieth year. On Sunday morning I got a note from Cary Sun, the conference’s Global Event Manager, telling me that as part of the 20th anniversary ceremony the conference will recognize me as a Distinguished Contributor. I will not be there to take the plaque – my day job, and a docket full of outbreaks, is keeping me on Bainbridge Island – so someone will accept it on my behalf and send it home. I wanted to say thank you here, where more people will see it.
Good company
I share the Distinguished Contributor award with two people who have done far more for this conference than I have. Wu Yongning is chief scientist at the China National Center for Food Safety Risk Assessment (CFSA) and director of the National Health Commission’s Key Laboratory of Food Safety Risk Assessment. Cindy Jiang is a global food safety ambassador and the former senior director of global food safety at McDonald’s. A plaintiffs’ lawyer and the woman who ran food safety for the world’s largest hamburger chain on the same slide. My career started with a hamburger in 1993, so I am not sure which of us should be more surprised.
The ceremony also honors Ge Zhirong, the conference’s honorary chairman and a former deputy director of China’s General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine, and Chen Junshi, an academician of the Chinese Academy of Engineering and chief advisor to CFSA, for distinguished leadership. The International Association for Food Protection is recognized as the conference’s distinguished global host. FDA, USDA, the European Food Safety Authority, Germany’s Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR), the UN Food and Agriculture Organization and the Shanghai JS Life Sciences Institute are named distinguished supporters. And the ceremony closes with Cindy Jiang performing a song she wrote and composed for the occasion, “Food Safety Starts With You and Me.” I am sorry to miss that one in particular.
How a lawyer from Seattle ended up at a food safety conference in Beijing
It started with pets. During the 2007 melamine pet food recalls, someone told me about a new conference China’s quality and quarantine agency, AQSIQ, was launching in Beijing. I called the organizers. They offered me a keynote slot – if Marler Clark would become the Platinum sponsor. We did, and we kept doing it.
That September, at the first CIFSQ, I gave a keynote titled “The Legal Costs of Foodborne Illness,” and my colleague Suzanne Schreck led a breakout on what a company should do when it is identified as the source of an outbreak. A year later I was back in Beijing with “How US Consumers Hold Producers Accountable: A Civil Litigation Lesson in the US Market,” delivered just as the melamine-tainted infant formula scandal was exploding. I gave Former Washington Governor Gary Locke my keynote that year too (he went on to be Commerce Secretary and Ambassador to China under Obama). I said then that Chinese food safety officials were doing exactly the right thing by inviting people from around the world to come and share what they knew. I still think so. It was also the year Beijing hosted the Olympics, and my daughter, Sydney, made the trip with me. My friend Dave Ernst, a defense lawyer, now passed, spoke at the conference too.
In 2009 the conference slipped from September to November, and I gave two talks, the second on how American product liability law reaches Chinese producers who sell food in the United States. In 2010 CIFSQ moved to Shanghai, and my keynote was titled “Food Manufacturers: Why It Is a Bad Idea to Poison Your Customers.” I would not change a word of that title today. Getting there was its own story. I flew from Seattle to Los Angeles for a court hearing, then to Dallas and on to Fayetteville to teach at the University of Arkansas law school, then to Detroit, where I missed my flight. I still made it to Shanghai, where my wife, Julie, met me. After the conference I flew to Chicago for a deposition, and only then home to Seattle. I also missed the World Series in person that year, and I wrote at the time that food safety had become more than a law practice; it had become a mission. That has not changed either.
In 2020, COVID put me in front of a camera instead of a podium, and in 2021 I could not make the trip. In 2023 I was back for the opening session, on a panel about the challenges of foodborne disease moderated by Yuki Minato of the World Health Organization, alongside CDC’s Laura Gieraltowski, Martyn Kirk of the Australian National University, Markus Lipp of the FAO and Mohammad Alwetaid of the Saudi FDA.
I did not make the flight every year. Some years I sent a donation instead of myself, because the conference mattered whether or not I was in the room.
Why a food safety conference in Shanghai matters to people in Seattle
Food does not stay home. An ingredient that leaves a plant in one country can make people sick in another before anyone has a name for it, and the regulators, scientists and companies who have to find it rarely sit in the same room. For twenty years, CIFSQ has put them there. Look at the first morning’s program: CFSA’s Fan Yongxiang on risk assessment in China; FDA China Office Director Sarah McMullen on U.S. regulatory priorities, with a video greeting from Donald Prater, FDA’s acting deputy commissioner for food; Todd Reed, FSIS deputy administrator for science and policy, on meat, poultry and eggs; BfR President Andreas Hensel on Europe; and China’s State Administration for Market Regulation on enforcement. That is not a lineup you see often, and it is not one you get by accident.
What is on the program
Day one includes a countdown to China’s GB 7718 and GB 28050 labeling transition in March 2027, a panel moderated by Cindy Jiang on moving food safety culture “from compliance checkbox to measurable organizational behavior,” and a long afternoon on biomanufactured foods and new approach methodologies (NAMs) for chemical safety assessment, with speakers from WHO, FAO, FDA and EFSA.
Day two splits into fourteen breakouts: novel foods and alternative proteins, risk communication, AI, food contact materials, environmental monitoring for Listeria (including FDA’s Benjamin Warren on the revised Codex recommendations), PFAS and microplastics, omics-enabled risk assessment, food fraud, biotoxins, and two sessions on food safety culture. Vanessa Coffman of the Alliance to Stop Foodborne Illness speaks in both of the culture sessions, which is exactly right. Every room that talks about food safety culture needs someone in it who speaks for the people who got sick.
The sessions I would have sat in on
Two of them. In the omics session, FDA’s James Pettengill and Ruth Timme will talk about the surveillance and computing infrastructure behind whole genome sequencing. Sequencing is the reason we now know, with near certainty, which sick people belong to the same outbreak – it is how I was able to show this week that my two clients in the Trader Joe’s chicken wrap outbreak sit in the same tight cluster on a public tree. In the hot topics session, FDA’s Melinda Hayman will walk through the Food Traceability Final Rule, a rule that has been law since 2022 and that, as I wrote for Food Safety News on Friday, nobody has to follow until July 2028.
Sequencing finds the cluster. Traceability finds the food. And then there is the risk communication session down the hall, which asks the question I keep asking: once you know, who do you tell? The best genomics and the best traceback records in the world do not protect anyone if the public never hears the result. That is true in Washington, D.C., and it is true in Beijing.
Thank you
Thank you to Cary Sun, Kenny Sun and the CIFSQ Secretariat, to Dr. Chen Junshi, and to IAFP for twenty years of building this bridge, and for thinking of me. Congratulations to Dr. Wu, to Cindy, and to everyone recognized on Wednesday. I hope the conference has a great twentieth year, and I hope to be back in Shanghai or Bejing for the twenty-first.
Outbreaks are preventable. That has always been the message, whether it is said in Seattle or in Shanghai.
Bill











